DIY floating shelves are a perfect addition to any room!. They are cheap to build and so heavy duty! A pretty easy build, too! A few boards and some screws. I now have a set in my kitchen and another in my son’s room. Do you have a wall crying for these? I know you do!
The ones in my son’s room are longer. I really love how they turned out!
DIY Floating Shelves Tutorial
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Materials Needed for one shelf
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- (1) 2″ x 2″ x 8′
- (1) 1″ x 4″ x 8′
- (2) 1″ x 6″ x 8′
- Miter Saw
(or have your wood cut at the store) - Pocket Hole Jig
- Wood Glue (use on all seams)
- Pocket Hole Screws
- Wood Screws
- Drill/Driver
- Brad Nailer with 1 1/4″ brad nails
- level
- Stud Finder
- Dark Walnut Wood Stain
(or have your wood cut at the store)
Cuts
- 2×2 cuts
- (3) at 3- 3/4”
- (1) 72”
- 1×4 cuts
- (2) 5 ½” for the sides
- (1) 73 ½” for the front
- 1×6 cuts
- (2) 72” for the top and bottom
Step 1: Build the frame and attach to the wall
First you will build the frames out of 2 x 2s. Using a pocket hole jig
, drill pocket holes and attach with pocket hole screws
and wood glue.
Side note about the jig: This tool is what motivated me to start building. There are different models. If you’re on the fence try the mini jig for $19 on Amazon
Step 2: Build the Shelf Boxes
To build each shelf box for your DIY floating shelves, begin by attaching the 1x4s together as shown. Drill pocket holes and join with 1 ¼” pocket screws and wood glue at the seams.
Then add 1×6’s to the sides
To finish off the box, secure the sides with brad nails. I used my favorite nail gun
for this part!
Step 3: Paint the Shelves (before you put them up!)
At this point I highly recommend you paint the boxes. It’s a lot easier to do it before they are attached to the wall. I used this stain
for the kitchen shelves and this darker one for the bedroom shelves.
Step 4: Slide the Boxes on
This is the most fun part!!
Step 5: Secure with Screws
To secure them unto the frame, drill wood screws
from the bottom of the shelves into the 2×2’s. This will keep them from sliding.
Step 6: Fill them up with all the things!!!
I used to have all of my son’s high school memorabilia on a small bookcase or stuck inside a drawer. Now it is part of his room decor! What do you think?
Have fun building these!!! Don’t forget to grab the free plans
And Pin them so you won’t forget them!
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Oh, how I love them! I will have to tackle this project one day soon. They look stunning in your home!
Thank you so much Carolann!! I hope you get to make them soon!
This is a great project and i LOVE the finish of them!cPinned 🙂
Thanks Medina!
Love these! How do you fit inside when attaching the second, long panel? Or do you just use the brad nailer on the ends and not the rest? thanks
Hi Debbie! The long pieces are attached with pocket screws. It’s actually not a problem to fit the second long piece, as long as you use the longest bit that comes with the kreg jig. I used brad nails only on the top of the sides. I hope that makes sense 🙂 I’m glad you liked them!
The short pieces of 2×2 need to be at 3 1/2 not 51/2″
1 3/4 ” actually
Sorry, 3 3/4″
Thanks Tom! I had someone else mention this too. I’ll have to modify the plans. Thanks for commenting and clarifying this for everyone!
would these be strong enough for daily use in a kitchen?
Yes they would! Very strong, as long as they’re attached to the studs 🙂
You need (2) 1” x 6” boards. It says you only need 1 in the material list
Thanks Matt! I will make the update. Really appreciate the feedback!
I’d like the plans for the shorter shelves. Is that possible.
Hi Kim! Unfortunately I haven’t drawn plans for the smaller ones. Google “shanty2chic floating shelves”
They have plans for shorter ones. Have a great day!
Hi Kim! Sorry, I haven’t drawn plans for the shorter ones. You can easily adapt the plans by making shorter cuts, though.
They talk of gluing”sems” uhhhhh in woodworking that is called joints–just saying.
Well. To me the “joints” are the actual “holes” that join the pieces (pocket holes, dados etc…) where seams cover the entire area adjoining the 2 pieces. You made the teacher 👩🏫 come out of me 😂
Hi, I’m locate din Australia and just wondered what type of wood you used?
thanks
Ry
Hi Ryan, I used select pine.
what type of fasteners did you use to secure the brackets to the wall?
Hi Matt,
I built a frame from 2x2s and secured that to the wall with 3″ wood screws into the studs.Then I built the box and slid it onto the frame.
Wont the shell’s interior space be 2″ and the 2×2 frame, 1.5 actual inches in thickness, be a very loose fit? Screwing from the bottom would cause the shell to raise by than 1/2 of gap?
Hi Kurt!
Yes there will be a gap inside but once the boxes and screwed in from the bottom you don’t notice it. They are very sturdy. If you want a snug fit you could try using 2x3s for the frame
Hey, Great shelves!
How deep can these shelves be modified to? Would they be strong enough to support a rod underneath for hanging clothing? I’m thinkin of these in closet.
Hey Heidi!
You could easily go 12” deep on these and for added strength maybe use 2×3 for the frame instead of 2×2. That’ll also give you a little more “board” to attach the rod to. Good luck!
Haven’t built them yet, but someone I stumbled upon these plans and I’m going to make them in the near future. I like the site too!
Hey Brian thanks! Have fun building those 🙂
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When measuring for the distance for a different length how far from the wall would you mount the frame to make it sit flush against the wall? 1/2 in space for the shelves to slide on?
Hi Jamie,
If you want the shelf flush against that wall, it may be best to attach the frame against the wall, the leave out one of the small side pieces when you build the shelf casing. I hope this makes sense 🙂
Alternatively, to answer your question, you can place the frame 3/4″ away from the wall (the width of the board).
Could these be modified to open and have storage inside?
Probably! Anything is possible 🙂