Discover how easy it is to build a simple and stylish 2×4 barstool. Build two or three for extra seating or use it as plant stand for instant farmhouse outdoor charm. Scroll to the bottom of this post for access to free plans.
Hello friends! I’m glad you’re here and are ready to build this 2×4 Barstool!
Technically speaking this is a counter stool because it’s 26 1/2″ tall. Barstools are supposed to be taller. Call it what you will, it’s cute, and super cheap to build! How awesome is that??? I am a BIG fan of 2x4s. They are cheap and so sturdy! I even splurged and bought the better quality studs for a whopping $3.40 a piece. I bought 4 boards and built 2 stools. TWO!
Here is a picture you can refer to for the dimensions of this piece
I will give you the materials list and the cut list, then I will break down the building steps for you. I have plenty of pictures. I like pictures better than words, so I hope you feel the same 🙂 If not, sorry about all the scrolling. As for plans, I didn’t have any, so this was truly a “let’s try this and see how it goes” project. I followed the same style as the farmhouse bench I built a while back and I am so happy with the outcome..
Important: Use wood glue on every joint. Also, I recommend you read this entire tutorial before you begin.
*This post contains affiliate links. Click here to view the full disclosure.
DIY 2×4 Barstool
Materials List
|
Cut List- Remember, all 2x4s 🙂
I put the pieces together in the same order shown on the cut list above |
(20-30)
Bevel vs miter cuts
If you are new to woodworking make sure you check out my bevel versus miter post, where I walk you through the differences between the two and show you how to make the cuts for this project using your miter saw.
DIY 2×4 Barstool- Tutorial
Step 1: Build the Seat
Using your Pocket Hole Jig
drill pocket holes in the 3 pieces that make up the seat. and put them together with 2 1/2″ pocket screws.
The arrows point to the direction of the pocket holes. Try to drill your pocket holes 2-3 inches away from the ends. You will want to leave room to attach the legs later.
Put the three pieces together with 2 1/2″ pocket screws.
Step 2: Attach the legs to the seat
The cuts you make for the legs should be beveled at 10 degrees. Here’s a little trick I use to make the angled cuts. For a beveled angle you will set the 10 degrees on the top end of your miter saw, right behind the blade, usually. This will tilt your blade to the left slightly.
Then I make the first cut on a piece that is slightly longer than the piece I need as you see below, without measuring.
Then I flip the board upside down and over to the left and measure from there and mark my other end (see below). For the legs, I measured 25″ from the long point and cut again. That will give you parallel 10 degree bevels. Now do this 4 times. Sorry. Four legs 🙂 Be precise on these cuts. Wobbly legs aren’t cool 🙁
Now you can drill pocket holes on one end of the legs. Make sure and drill them on the longer side of the bevel. This is the side that will attach to the seat.
Now you are ready to attach these to the seat using 2 1/2″ pocket screws. Make sure you use wood glue on the joints. Attach them flush to the outside of the seat.
Progress!
Step 3: Attach the large crossbars
The 2 crossbars are mitered at 10 degrees. The mitered angle on the saw is set on the base of the saw below the blade. The bevel angle you set before should be back at “0” and your miter angle at 10 degrees. This will cause the base of your miter saw to slide to one side (I always set it to the left) but your blade will be straight.
I use the same technique I explained above. Choose a board that is larger than the length you need, cut one side first, then flip the board upside down and over to the right this time (for a non parallel cut), measure form the long point, and cut the other side.
Now you are ready to drill pocket holes on both ends and attach the crossbars to the legs. I attached them 5 inches from the bottom of the legs and flush with the outside of the legs.
Crossbars attached!
Step 4: Attach the small crossbars
These two pieces were an afterthought. I thought the stool looked unfinished without them. Adding them made the legs look more evenly parallel too. I cut them, drilled two pocket holes in opposite directions, then attached them with 2 1/2″ pocket screws.
And you’re done!
Step 5: Build another one (or more if you want!) and admire your work 🙂
And here’s a couple of pics of the barstools all finished! I decided to go with white.
Here is one last picture of this beauty as a plant stand! So versatile.
What do you all think??? Is this a project you might be willing to tackle? I would be happy to answer any questions! If you like this tutorial, share it, tweet it, pin it, and when you have time, build it!!
Click HERE to join my email list and get the plans for these barstools.
And If you like this project be sure and check out these other 2×4 projects!
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Hey I want to make a set of these. I was wondering how stable they are?
Hi Sean! The stools are very stable! We actually used one to hold our Big screen TV (temporarily) and no problems! The beveled cuts on the legs are the secret to stability. Just be sure your cuts are precise, especially on the legs. I’d love to see a picture of yours when you build them!
I built this stool for my woodshop
Yay!
These stools are very cool! How neat that you were able to make them with 2x4s. Love the price tag on this DIY!
Thanks Keri! Yep, super cheap to build.
Great project for an advanced beginner like me. The end results look wonderful.Thanks for sharing with us at Creatively Crafty #ccbg. I’ve shared your project all over social media. Hope you have a great week 🙂
Thank you so much, Lydia!
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Thanks for a great tutorial, I am just finished making a bar and now these bar stools will be the perfect addition. I only just figured out the bevel cutting which makes all the difference between a wobbly piece and solid. I am fairly new to woodworking but have all the power tools I could ever want now need to use them all. Great ideas, thank you!
Zara thank you! You just made my day! Yes, once you get that bevel cut you can apply it to any piece of furniture! It sure makes it sturdy!
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You ladies are amazing. These stools are yet moe pieces that look hard, but surely is not when you follow the Sawdust Sisters detailed tutorial. We are so thrilled to have you share with us at Friday’s Furniture Fix. Susie from The Chelsea Project
Thanks Susie! You are so sweet!
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There are parts that confuse me, but then I shouldn’t be surprised that I’m confused. I’m always confused. I believe I can make these and I intend to, I just may have to do it “my way”. Thank you!
Haha! There’s nothing wrong with putting your own spin on these! However If you have any questions about the tutorial I would be happy to try and clarify.
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Love this. I made mine out of cedar. More expensive but I wanted the more rustic look. They turned out awesome! Thank you so much for the tutorial. I learned a lot. It was so easy to follow!
Thank you Jenn!! I agree cedar is the best in terms of durability. I’m glad you liked them! I’d love to see yours. Send me a pic if you have time janice@sawdustsisters.com
I love theses barstools im making mine now thank u
You’re welcome, Billy!! Enjoy!
I love this idea! You did an amazing job on the stools and they look really sharp on your porch! This might be an upcoming project for us!
Thanks Lisa! I’m glad you liked them! 🙂
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I built one of these stools for my woodshop. I made it 33 inches tall so it would be easier to work at my bench and around my woodshop. This plan is super easy to read and very informative
Thanks for the feedback Matthew! Really appreciate it!
Gracias muy ilustrativo los pasos a seguir para la construcción de este taburete, un abrazo desde Perú
Gracias!
I just made these, and I am wondering where you got the 4 1/4-inch measurement for the side pieces. If a 2 x 4 is 3 1/2 inches wide, and these go between 2 straight 2x4s, shouldn’t these be 3 1/2 inches long? I had to cut mine off. Besides that, the directions were perfect!
Hi Tomi! I attached those pieces lengthwise not width wise. I literally just cut a piece of 2×4 at 4.5” and it was able to fit it. That piece can vary per build though. I’m glad the rest of the instructions were good 🙂 Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for posting, Looks like a good design. , I’m going to build it. I made a 2×4 stool that is too large and heavy. I use the stool at my workbench where I also have an older PC. It is also a sit and think place. I suggest that your website not use blue color for the lettering. It is too faint for easy reading.
Thanks for the Feedback Emil!
That stool has been built many times so give it a go 🙂
I’m in the process of opening a woodworking shop to start to offer classes. Finishing up 6 class workstations and these will be great for participants to use with the workstations!
Thanks Randi! Good to hear. Glad you like them!
Can these be modified to 29 or 30 inches? If so, what adjustments do I need to make?
Thanks for your help!
Jerry
Hey Jerry,
To make them 30” tall add 3- 1/2 inches to the legs. Instead of cutting them at 25”, cut them at 28 1/2. Everything else should stay the same. I’ve not built them that height before so I’m curious to hear how they’d turn out. Let me know 🙂
What did you use to clamp the legs to the top when driving in the pocket screws? I my experience I find I need the pieces well clamped to avoid movement.
Hi Matt, Back when I built these I think I just used my hand 🙂 Sometimes I have my husband hold things in place for me. I use glue in each joint and that helps. I did get a right angle clamp for pocket holes and it’s really helpful for holding things in place. Here’s my affiliate link if you’re interested in checking it out. Take care and good luck!
https://amzn.to/3qjKfFv
Hey quick question.
Probably my error, but the small cross bar was too large? My stool was 3 – two by fours wide. Then adding the legs one 2 x 4 that I wanna leave room for one 2 x 4 in the middle which is roughly about 3 1/2 maybe three and three-quarter inches. But the plans call for a 4 1/4 inch 2 x 4?
Thanks for the plans and help!
Hi Jerry, I’m out of town, or else I’d go measure my barstools 🙂 I suggest to measure as you go with those cuts to make them more precise. Sorry I can’t help more!
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Hi! Thanks for this tutorial and for making woodworking seem less scary! Question- if I don’t have a pocket hole jig, would there be any substitute? Or other types of joinery? I have a compound miter saw but no jigs of any sort. Thanks!
Hi Jenna, there are a lot of types of joinery but I find pocket hole jigs to be the most user-friendly and to be honest the only one I feel comfortable enough with:) It really depends on what you’re building. I encourage to invest in one! They start in the $40 range.
I was interested in making this, but having to wait for every picture because of an ad was a bit much. I understand about monetizing a blog with advertising but come on! Now I’ll find a different plan.
Hey could’ve downloaded the free plans in the time it took you to write this comment. Ads are the only way I can provide free content. Good bless.